Norway: Geiranger fjord to Trollstigen

The ferry for a Geiranger fjord voyage.

On our way into the mouth of the fjord.

A play of light and shadows

The sun was barely able to peek up from the high mountains surrounding the fjord.

Geiranger fjord was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site list in 2005. It is only 15km long but surrounded with high mountains and several waterfalls.

There are some plans to run power-lines through it, which would probably exclude it from UNESCOs list. It would be a shame ruining such natural beauty.

A view of the Devil’s Canyon – named so, because the sun never shines inside it and the devil once hid there.

Several waterfalls fall in the fjord from the cliffs above. One of the most famous is Seven sisters, but due to the low amount of rain, it was far from what it normaly looks like.

The suitor waterfall – just opposite of the Seven sisters. Some people also call it ‘A Bottle’ – as there’s an image of bottle after the fall splits into two streams.

Skinny sisters that autumn.

Water falling from the cliffs creating veils of droplets.

Reflections

The look on the famous ‘Eagle road’.

The view of Geiranger village with a mighty Åkerneset in the background. The mountain is slightly eroding and is expected some day to crash down into a fjord, which will create a tsunami – an event that already happened a few times in Norwegian fjords.

And here we go, steering wheel in hands again and towards the Eagle road.

Nice track representation on our GPS. In just a few kilometers, you climb from sea level up to 620m.

There’s also a panorama platform placed somewhere in the middle of the road with a nice view of the fjord – or at least a part of.

Arriving to Eisdal, we had another picturesque fjord to cross.

Along the road 63, we started our next ascend into the mountains.

Crossed some nice green valleys.

And reached another mountain range. Notice how weirdly angled the mountains are?

Angles, remember? 🙂

A massive mountain towers above the Trollstigen mountain road.

The beginning of the famous road.

A view from the viewing platform – Trollstigen is one of the most scenic roads in the world. Starting at 858m it descends 320m in 11 hairpin bends.

While you are driving it, the waterfall keeps you company on every other bend in the upper part.

Another view of the waterfall.

And the lower part of Trollstigen.

Sunset colours at the Romsdalsfjorden.

Norway: Lom to Hellesylt

And our destination – the world famous Geiranger fjord!

After waking up in misty morning, it was time to hit the road again!

Just a mountain creek along the way.

Moose crossings warning sings started to appear quite often.

And the land transformed into tundra with low birches and pine trees and red lichen covering the rocks on the hills.

Traveling around Norway in September is a real joy – no tourist queues to spoil the beautiful landscape.

And even if we left the amazing Jotunheimen park, glacier covered mountains followed us on our route.

As soon as we made a stop by the road, we were met by these good looking fellows.

I have to admit, I am more of a cat person, but I just love Siberian Huskies and I also owned one in the past. And yeah, truth be told, their character is quite similar to cat’s in many way.

Time to cross the tundra again.

And into the mountains, not knowing what lays ahead at the end of the tunnel.

Oh look, a foggy valley. Well that’s about the baddest weather we experienced in a week of our roadtrip.

Along the Oppstryn lake lies a Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre, which also bears a Viking theme.

Along with the restaurant – viking drinking horns are a must!

And of course hot tubs!

The center also provides small (free entrance) museum of the local surroundings, its animal life and even some geology. This photo shows the world’s heaviest stone, 3.3x heavier than water.

Nice, whale-like, reflections in the lake.

Another empty road and the fog and low clouds are giving way to sun and blue skies!

And our destination – the world famous Geiranger fjord!

Norway: Sogndal via Jotunheimen to Lom

 

Leaving Sogndal along the fjord inland…

Amazing setting of Sognefjord.

Our plan was to visit Urnes stave church. The plan failed (luckily in a way) as we would have to wait for a ferry for far too long. So we took a short meal break on the shore of Sognefjord instead.

Just one of the several high waterfalls along the Sognefjord.

Another view of the fjord.

A view of Skjolden, a town at the very end of Sognefjord.

Bright blue Fortundalselva river accompanied us towards the highlight of that day’s journey – the amazing Jotunheimen national park.

Narrow road soon started to ascend, but twisty turns didn’t let us know, where we were actually going.

As we were clueless of what we were about to cross, the inital steep forests with an ocassional waterfall or two didn’t impress us much. Beautiful and serene but not much more.

And then BAM!!! Forests gave way to the proper tundra-like landscape and the first black mountainpeaks of the Jotunheimen greeted us.

Jotuns were giants in Old Norse (viking age) mythology. Jotunheimen would translate to the ‘Home of the giants’.

Slightly higher, we get a better look of the black mountain peaks of some of the highest Norwegian mountains. It doesn’t take a lot of imagination for the sharp jagged peaks to resemble Jotun’s teeth.

The road travelled so far.

I measure 180cm, so you can imagine how much snow they anticipate on this road in the winter.

Another view of the majestic peaks of the Jotunheimen national park.

But when you think you have already reached the top, just around the corner, the road ascends again…

And we “found” some of the last winter’s snow. It doesn’t take a lot for a kid to be happy 🙂

Despite being at more than 1000m high and above the tree line, water is in abundance. Numerous lakes scattered the wilderness.

Have I mentioned lakes, yet?

When you think, you’ve seen it all, this kind of view pops up around the corner.

Country road, take me home, to the place I belong, Jotunheimen in Norway…! 😀

A little mountain hut on the shore of one of the numerous lakes.

Serenity

Close view of the glacier, just as we started our descent towards Lom.

Unfortunately the photos don’t do justice to the natural beauty.

And down we go. Amazing mountain scenery follows us on our way.

Warm colours of afternoon sun light our way when we descend below the tree line.

Foseebergom – a small town at the foothill of yet another mountain range.

And guess what. If we had to abandon plans to visit Urnes stave church, we got to see the Lom one instead.

Viking age inspired motive on this 12-century church.

And after a looong day, we finally reached our wooden cottage for the night!

Norway: Bergen to Sogndal

Leaving Bergen behind, we ventured inside the fjord country on a road towards Sogndal and beyond…

And off we went… through countless tunnels piercing through Norway.

Early morning mists over one of the fjords – note the snow patches in the mountains…

It might be early, but not for this cheery viking dude 🙂

As we were driving along, the lanscape became more and more mountanious with numerous waterfalls…

…and rivers running along the valleys.

Entry to the vast and spectacular West Norway Fjord area – UNESCO’s World Heritage Area

It so fascinating how in Norway, the landscape changes so dramaticly by just driving around the corner

At one time you are driving through narrow glacier valleys…

…which seem neverending…

…and all of a sudden, a fjord appears in front of you.

Lærdal road tunnel – the longest road tunnel in the world!

Architect was clever enugh to break up monotony of driving in a tunnel by creating such galleries every few kilometeres…

which are all “painted” by different colours of light, so you are in constant anticipation of the next colour and the drive through feels like a breeze.

And as soon as you exit the tunnel, the Sognefjord greets you. This is the longest fjord in Norway reaching 205km inland from the ocean.

Bright red Sogndal’s Stedje church with graveyard.

Beside the chuch stands a rune stone from aprox. year 1100. The inscripton says: “King Olav shot between these stones”.

Norway: Bergen

Fantoft stave church on the outskirts of Bergen.

This church was first build in 1150 at a small village at Sognefjord, but was moved to the outskirst of Bergen in 19th century.

Dragon heads! Stave churches were built to mimic Viking religious temples to “ease” the transformation to Christianity.

The design of the churches reflected the Viking style with all the ornaments, arches, pillars and other intricate details.

In early 1990’s, there was a series of church burnings by the members of Norwegian Black Metal scene. Fantoft church was burned in arson – it was rebuilt in 1997.

Fløybanen funicular runs from the old city center up to Mount Fløyen.

The afternoon view from the Mount Fløyen revealing Bergen’s center.

Of course, there has to be a gift shop at the upper funicular station – figures of Old Norse gods among the other Norway and Viking themed souvenirs.

This has to be one of the most beautiful buildings McDonald’s is housed in.

A view of the Mount Fløyen from the Bergren havn.

There’s a fish market at the Bergen bay – unfortunately, we arrived late in the afternoon when most of the stalls were already closed, but we managed to check some creatures on sale 🙂

A view of the wooden Bryggen. Bryggen is a UNESCO world heritage site – while this part of the town dates back to the Viking age, most of the surviving buildings date back to 18th and 19th century. Bryggen itself was built by Hanseatic merchants in 14th century.

NORGE!!!

Several old port buildings to the East of the Bryggen.

And a row of colorful Hanseatic wooden buildings, which now house bars, restaurant, museums and souvenir shops.

Bryggen paths are all wooden. Not surprisingly, parts of it were destroyed through history by fire, the last in 1955. While the fire destroyed some if the building, the excavation that followed revealed great runic inscriptions buried beneath Bryggen.

 

 

Stavanger and a road to Bergen

After a good night’s sleep, we headed to  downtown Stavanger and do a quick tour of the city center.

Stavanger’s city center Braivatnet lake is home to ducks and swans and the walking path around it attracts lots of people, while the restaurants offer nice views.

Sea inlet called Vagen host a small harbor, West side being primarily industrial.

Typical white wooden facade houses rise above Vaden inlet.

One of the ships on the Easter side of the Vaden contrasted by some old buildings, including the beautiful Victoria Hotel.

Eastern side of the Vagen inlet, full of picturesque houses housing bars, restaurants and souvenir shops.

Beautiful Victoria Hotel in the old part of Stavanger next to the Vagen inlet.

We immediately fell in love with the old city center with its amusing little shops and bars…

…as well as colorful houses, which brightened the otherwise cloudy skies.

You couldn’t help but smile when you were reading slogans above the shops-

Street art also flourishes in these parts, but as you can see, the graffiti are Norwegian themed (we are in the land of the trolls afterall).

Lamp posts are nicely decorated with flower pots, giving the additional color to the already colorful streets.

Stavanger Cathedral – the oldest cathedral in Norway. It was finished around 1150 but has gone through quite some changes during the centuries.

Leaving the Stavanger behind us, we embarked on a journey over a diverse West coast towards Bergen.

And here we are, on the road again – inbound Bergen.

Almost every piece of meadow is used as a pasture, bordered by the road on one side and Atlantic Ocean on the other.

Every once in a while, the pastures are broken by small villages with a few houses and mandatory pier for their boats.

One cannot travel from Stavanger to Bergen without crossing the fjords and Ocean. Immediately after exiting Stavanger to the North you enter a tunnel which is at its deepest point 223m below the sea level!!

Slightly larger ferries connect the E39 Stavanger to Bergen road in two places.

Serene landscape of the West coast islands.

Beside ferries and tunnels, bridges play an important part of the road network as well.

Straight to Bergen or right to another ferry?

Ferry ride part 2. Bergen is close now.

There is quite a lot of shipping in the coastal waters, contrasted by hilly background of the fjords.

And finally, our destination – cottage in a camp just outside of Bergen.

Stavanger: Sverd i fjell

After our hike to Preikestolen, we finally arrived to our camping cottage in the middle of Stavanger. After a quick shower and cloths change, we decided it would be nice to buy somewhere a bottle or can of beer (hell, we have deserved it!) and enjoy the well deserved rest. Well, we had no such luck – stores were already closed and petrol stations, unlike in most of the Europe, don’t sell any kind of alcohol beverages. Alright, a lesson learned but at least we visited a Sverd i fjell monument. This has to be one of the coolest Viking monuments ever – uncovered in 1983 by King Olav V, the monument commemorates the battle of Hafrsfjord that took place in 872. In that battle, King Harald Fairhair emerged victorious and joined several smaller kingdoms under his banner, first move in uniting the Norwegian kingdoms. Swords are more than 10m high and are planted in the rock by the shore. The highest sword (and most adorned) is representing King Harald’s while the slightly smaller and plainer ones are of two defeated petty kings. After paying respect to my spiritual ancestors, it was time to head back to the cottage. I apologize to my friends who had to wait in the chilly evening for the “perfect” blue light. 🙂

Norway: Preikestolen

The main target of our first full day in Norway was a climb up to Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) cliff. Probably the most famous cliff in Norway (besides Trolltunga) and much more accessible to the masses. Luckily, September is a month, when crowds disappear and although there were people up there, it was not as crowded as it can get in the summer months.

Recently, Preikestolen featured in the final scene of final episode of Season 2 of History Channel Vikings series, with King Ragnar Lothbrok sitting on the cliff.

Parking at the foot of the Preikestolen trek. Parking costs 100kr for cars and prepare to have change with you.

Informative sign of what lays ahead of you. While it says 2 hours of walk, we climbed in 1.5hrs with a rather poor physical condition at the time. There are two steeper parts, one right at the beginning and the other one just before the 2km mark.

Typical Scandinavian forest greets you most of the way, but you will enjoy limited views of the fjord just at the start of the tour. Oh and don’t be affraid of zip-liners over your head.

One of the steeper, rockier parts. Good footwear is essential and even more so, when there’s bad weather.

Soon after climbing the second bigger and at the same time steepest climb, the terrain flattens and you are greeted by two lakes.

Surrounding views from there are just spectacular… It feels like you’ve entered some other dimension… maybe even some Lord of the Rings movie.

Did I mention spectacular before?

Almost at the top of the climb.

As you reach the top, the path gets narrow and follows the curve around the top of the mountain. There are some cracks along the way.

A view of the Lysefjord, just before reaching the Preikestolen.

And finally, the Preikestolen in sight! And what a sight it is!

A crack on the plateau – ultimately, the cliff will fall down into the Lysefjord but geologists say that this will not happen in the foreseeable future.

While on top, a Search and Rescue Eurocopter arrived, responding to an emergency call near the Preikestolen.

Some are more brave than others, but I didn’t want to risk vertigo at the edge of the 604m vertical fall to the fjord.

A view of the Lysefjord towards the East.

When we arrived to the plateau, we noticed almost anyone who arrives, jumps near the edge, while someone else is taking photo of their feat. Initially, that was not our plan, but then a man approached us with a photo request and after we took photo of his jumping family, he insisted he will return the favor. So we did jump after all!

Saying last goodbyes to this amazing geological work of Nature.

Norway: Gardermoen to Stavanger

Arriving to the Oslo Gardermoen airport in the afternoon, we picked up our rental Volvo and took the road to the South – to Kristiansand on the southernmost tip of the country. Driving experience was similar to Swedish one – calm drivers with fluid, speed limit respecting traffic – a real joy to drive on such roads.

After a short night’s sleep in a camp, just outside of Kristiansand, we were greeted by a sunny morning and the dawn brought a symbolic start of our Norwegian experience.

You can’t get a better start of a journey than this – sunlit calm waters of mini fjord by the camp.

Rocks covered by bushes, moss and lichen and a view of the North sea.

Small house in the little fjord – must be the pirate’s stronghold 😉

Our goal for today was reaching Stavanger, but in the process, see the southern part of the country and the prize of the day, climb and see the famous Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) cliff.

It is not likely, that you will drive really fast in Norway. Usual out-of-the-town speed limit is 80km/h so plan your travel times well ahead with plenty of reserve.

As we went along, landscape changed from rather flat to quite hilly.

Some clouds threatened to spoil our good weather luck by this fjord.

But soon the sun prevailed and the bright house colors started to reflect in the lakes.

Did I mention reflections before? Yes, Mirror like reflections!

Peaceful farms with mountains in the background.

The scenery started to become more and more beautiful.

And countless lakes and rivers spread between fjords and mountains. It’s hard to find such a picteresque place, that just goes on and on…

Below the steep mountain side towards even more mountains.

Glacier valleys and a multitude of colours – driving long distances as we did is a breeze with the scenery like this!

Just a short ride to the Preikestolen starting point – waiting for the short ferry ride. Bridge connects both sides of Lysefjord.

Tightly packed for 10 minutes and we are off towards new adventures.

Small island at the beginning of the Lysefjord.

A trip to Norway

Everyone who has ever met me knows, that I am in love with the  North. I prefer winter to summer, snow covered plains to sunlit beaches etc. So I guess it is now wonder that in summer, instead of traveling to some Mediterranean beach, I rather travel somewhere up North. I’ve been to Helsinki (Finland) before and in 2013 I’ve traveled around Sweden with my wife. I know this photo/travel report is long overdue, but better late than never. So in 2014, along with my wife and a couple of friends, we’ve set our sights on Norway!

As I like to travel on a budget, which requires quite some resourcefulness in Scandinavia, and since we wanted to see as much as possible in the limited time available, travel plans have started earlier in the year, while the travel date was set for September. September is great for traveling around Scandinavia, as most of the tourists are already gone so you have the whole country for yourself, while the weather is still nice and warm.

So the September arrived and it was time to go. While I usually find the best deals on low-cost airlines, surprisingly this time, the best deal we got was by a Dutch airline KLM. Return fare Venice – Amsterdam – Oslo was just over 160EUR – a deal, any low-cost airline would be hard to beat – especially due to extra costs usually required for extra luggage. Starting our trip near Kranj, we picked up our friends in Ljubljana and started our 2hour journey to Venice.

After a rather uneventful drive, we parked at Ali Park, a private parking space just outside of the airport. They offer cheaper alternative to the airport parking and they take you to the airport and pick you up when you return with a van.

All the photos in the gallery are captioned, so just click on the first photo and enjoy the report with larger resolution photos, than normally on this blog.

Leaving the Venice terminal

Green Venetian laguna with the Sant’ Erasmo island visible in the top right corner; Venice itself is just a little out of the photo.

Nice view of the Venice Marco Polo airport with the Murano island, famous for its glass works, just in front of the winglet.

Another view of the bright Venetian laguna.

Unfortunately, most of the flight we were flying over broken cloud cover with little of the view to enjoy. We were, instead, greeted by the circular rainbow I haven’t seen before.

Descending towards Amstedam, clouds gave way a bit and beautiful mix of green and blue instantly reminded us, that Netherlands is indeed tied between the sea and the land.

Just before the landing – numerous meadows crisscrossed by irrigation channels.

On Dutch soil… as evident by the bright blue KLM Boeings 🙂

Air Traffic Control tower at Schipol airport – slightly higher than the one I am working at 🙂

After arriving to Amsterdam, we had a little under an hour for our connected flight to Oslo, again on a KLM Boeing 737-800, as on a flight from Venice. I normally don’t like the connected flights, especially inside of Europe, but for this price and just the right amount of wait time (so you don’t have to sprint across the huge terminal buildings), I was more than happy.

Another uneventful flight and we finally arrived to Norway where our adventure really began!

And off we go – taxiing for take off from Schipol – Amsterdam airport has interesting layout as highways and other roads cross under it.

Up towards the cloudy skies saying goodbye to the Netherlands.

Our flight took us along the West Danish coast. Interesting broken coast with crescent shaped Amrum island.

And finally Norway in sight!

Rich spruce, birch and pine forests – yep definitely Scandinavia!

New terminal building being built at Oslo Gardermoen.

Till the next time!